I was born and raised in St. Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada. If you search for the most picturesque small towns in Canada, St. Andrews-by-the-Sea almost always lands near the top of the list. There are many reasons for that, but geography explains a lot.
St. Andrews sits on a long peninsula that reaches into Passamaquoddy Bay, an offshoot of the Bay of Fundy sheltered by a string of islands — Deer Island, Campobello Island, and Navy Island. It lies at the mouth of the St. Croix River, the international boundary between Canada and the United States. The coast of Maine is just across the water.
The St. Croix River is also where explorers Samuel de Champlain and Sieur de Monts spent the winter of 1604. It was a devastating experience. Thirty-four settlers died painfully from scurvy due to a lack of Vitamin C. When Champlain returned to North America in 1605, he established a colony at Port Royal, now Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia. That settlement fared far better because Champlain befriended the Indigenous Peoples who taught the settlers foodways that helped ensure their survival.
It may seem like I’m digressing, but Champlain’s first landing in North America was only a stone’s throw from where I grew up in St. Andrews. His second landing, in Nova Scotia, is where my Robicheau family settled in 1609. Eighteen generations later, during the Depression of the 1930s, they came to St. Andrews because they had heard there was work.
My grandfather — one of eight siblings — dug a barrel of clams a day for fifty cents. The family survived here. Over time, they dispersed across the country, but St. Andrews became part of our story.
The town itself was founded in 1783 by United Empire Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution. Many of the homes were dismantled in Maine, transported up the coast by barge and rebuilt in St. Andrews. My grandparents rented one of those homes when I was young.
Today, more than one hundred late 18th- and 19th-century heritage buildings remain. Their preservation helped St. Andrews earn designation as a National Historic Site in 1995.
Growing up here never made the town feel ordinary to me.
I grew up breathing in the grace and beauty of this place. Even now, whenever I return for a few weeks each year, I walk these streets every day in every season. And still, I find myself in a state of awe.
For years, I’ve been photographing my favourite historic homes and buildings. Along the way, I’ve read wonderful histories of the town by Willa Walker and David Sullivan, and explored the Heritage Tour created by the Saint Andrews Civic Trust. But the places gathered in this blog post are my personal favourites — the homes, inns, churches, and corners of town that continue to pull me back, year after year.
Each photograph holds a little history and often a personal memory.
I hope you’ll come visit St. Andrews-by-the-Sea someday. It’s beautiful no matter the season of the year — or the season of your life.
The Routes
It would be quite challenging to walk to all the places I’m going to share here in one day. You might reach some on foot and some by car. I suggest you spread your explorations out over a few days. A week would be even better.
Route 1 – Walk the Town Loop one day.
Route 2 – The Big Loop – Start at “the point” entrance to the Van Horne Trail, explore Pagan Point, continue out to Katy’s Cove on the Passamaquoddy Bay side, backtrack and go left at the fork skirting the base of Kingsbrae Gardens, past Katy’s Cove and all the way out to the Bar Road. Climb the hill, turn right on Mowat Drive and left on Cornelia. You’ll come out on Rte 127. Turn left and then right on Marine Science Dr. Walk about 500 meters and turn left on Brandy Cove Rd. Walk on the path that leads through the golf course. When it meets Cedar Lane, keep left on Brandy Cove Road and merge onto Joe’s Point Road and follow it back to Water St and downtown St. Andrews. This is stunning 2 hour walk.
Route 3 – Walk Joe’s Point Road from its inception to the far end of the golf course (hole #13) another day (hot tip: start with lunch at Niger Reef Tea House which is #1 Joe’s Point Road).
Route 4 – Drive your car over the Bar Road to Minister’s Island—and take a picnic—another day (note the tide-determined timetable for visits there May to October). Roam the grid of streets in the interior of the town another day.
Route 5 – Walk the grid of streets that make up the heart of the town.
Let’s begin.
Route 1 – The Town Loop – Start at The Algonquin Hotel
Start your walk at one of the most well known pieces of architecture in St. Andrews. Built in 1889, the Algonquin Hotel was an original Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) Hotel. Headquartered in Montreal, the CPR gave St. Andrews this hotel and a slogan to go with it; “No Hay Fever and Railway.” Montrealers escaping hot, humid summers could arrive to a cool sea breeze in just 8 hours by train.
Many of the elite CPR brass built summer homes here. My maternal grandfather, born and raised on a hops farm in the English countryside near Dover, was a gardener at the hotel in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. The gardens were extensive then. Fresh cut flowers from the cutting garden filled the hotel daily. My Mom worked in housekeeping here as a teenager. This is where both my older sister and I had our wedding receptions. That was a dream come true.
In 2026, the hotel is a Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel and a new USVA Nordic Spa will open.
Walk across the street, along Prince of Wales St now and you’ll see a cannon pointing at you. You’ve found Fort Tipperary.
Fort Tipperary – 96 Prince of Wales St
Though built for the War of 1812, the war ended before it was finished. It was then used as a garrison before becoming the home of Sir Thomas and Lady Shaughnessey circa 1901. Lord Shaughnessey was President of the CPR from 1899 to 1918. Members of the family resided there for some 83 years. The great grandchildren of Lord Shaughnessey were not much older than me. My mother did their mother, Margo’s, hair and she was one of the kindest people I ever met. I remember my friend Anne and I washing dishes for one gathering there. We got to put the dishes away in the DISH ROOM! It was a U-shaped room with floor to ceiling glass cabinets so one could see the different dish patterns. I was in awe. I’ll repeat, a DISH ROOM! It was amazing. Yes, there was a pool and tennis courts and an astounding view of Katy’s Cove and the bay beyond but I’ll never get over that DISH ROOM – lol.
Now, onto next door.
Hillcrest – 130 Prince of Wales Street
Built in 1905 for the Hosmer family by architect Edward Maxwell, this property is now home to the Kingsbrae International Residency for the Arts (KIRA) and a large amphitheatre for outdoor performances in the summer season. Mr. Hosmer was the head of the Telegraph department at CPR. When he left that business he started Olgilvie Flour Mills and was a director of 27 other companies.
And, onto the next mansion next door.
Rosemount – 148 Prince of Wales St
Brothers Edward and William Maxwell, the most notable architects in Canada in the early 20th century, built this home in 1907 for Mr. Charles F. Smith. He was a good friend of CPR manager William Cornelius Van Horne but only enjoyed four summers in this gracious home as he passed away in 1911. The current owner is Mrs. Lucinda Flemer the founder of Kingsbrae Gardens and KIRA and a great benefactor for the town.
Take time to stop at Kingsbrae Garden – 220 King St
John and Lucinda Flemer created Kingsbrae Garden in 1998 to preserve and maintain into perpetuity the family’s former estate. The 27-acre horticultural masterpiece showcases over 2,500 species of perennials, as well as, a wide variety of trees and shrubs. Dozens of sculptures add artful whimsy. Sage (pictured above), the restaurant at the garden, is open May to October and is popular for weddings. I can highly recommend it. It’s a favourite place for lunch. The mini lobster rolls are my favourite.
After you’ve checked out Kingsbrae Garden, continue along Prince of Wales until Augustus St. Turn right and walk until Augustus Hall.
Augustus Hall – 88 Augustus St
Augustus Hall was built in 1907 for Thomas Turner Odell Jr., one of a long line of successful dry goods merchants. This home was constructed as a year-round house, unlike the large summer residences built at that time. The granite foundation was laid by the same man who did the stonework for the Van Horne estate on Minister’s Island.
It is very gratifying to see the loving care given this structure by the current owners. It’s magnificent.
Now keep walking towards Water St and take a left and then a right onto Patrick St. Go to the end to find the lighthouse.
Pendlebury Lighthouse – 1 Patrick St
The oldest remaining lighthouse on mainland New Brunswick, this structure takes its name from the Pendlebury family who kept its light for almost 100 years, from John in 1842 to Emma Pendlebury in 1938. The original light had four oil lamps and reflectors that shone through the dozens of small panes of glass that made up each of its 8 windows. Though retired from service in 1938, the octagonal lighthouse has remained a town landmark, repaired, restored and owned by the Saint Andrews Civic Trust.
Kudos to the St Andrews Civic Trust for preserving this beauty. It is a welcome beacon to anyone returning to the harbour.
Now head back to Water St and turn left. Your next point of interest is near.
Salty Towers (formerly The Seaside Inn) 340 Water St
This was the place I got my first summer job (beyond babysitting and weaving blankets in the attic of a woolen mill). I worked in housekeeping for Mrs. Marjorie Richardson, the daughter of Captain Nelson Melville Clark who opened it as the Seaside Inn in 1921. It was originally built in 1845. I loved Mrs. Richardson’s stories of how the place roared in the 20s. I loved the big kitchen with a solid butcher’s block the size of a dining room table. I loved the painted red wicker chairs, shining hardwood floors, and potted palms throughout. I haven’t been inside since it became Salty Towers. I think its a great spin on Fawlty Towers, that 12 episode BBC series written by John Cleese and his then wife Connie Booth. And, it looks like the current owners have put lots of TLC into restoring and refurbishing the place. I still smile every time I walk by.
Continue a long Water St. There are so many colonial homes here.
Russell Home
Typical colonial home.
Captian Bell’s home
The home of sea captain Bell, I adore this cozy home on Water Street. My college friend Jim McCubbin lived here a few summers. I have fond memories of taking windsurfers out the back yard and onto the beach at high tide only to return at low tide and have to lug them a long way up the beach back to his yard. UGH. It was built in 1808 and sits on a strong and square foundation to this day.
Wren House – 327 Water Street
Built for the sea captain and ship building Wren family. Thomas Rudolph Wren was born in St. Andrews in 1858 and later studied pharmacy in Calais, Maine, and Boston before returning to St. Andrews and starting the long established firm of Wren’s Drugstore in 1882. Wren’s Drugstore continued to serve the town of St. Andrews until the 1970’s, and was known as the prescription drugstore in that town. My high school principal lived in this home so I always scurried by as I never wanted to draw his attention.
The John Dunn Estate House – 319 Water Street
The first Roman Catholic Mass in St. Andrews was said in this home. It was built before 1810 by Captain Paul and purchased by John Dunn in 1822.
298 Water Street
Perhaps not historically significant but isn’t it pretty?
Swift Home (Grammy Gowan’s) – 299 Water St
Built by settlers from Ireland circa 1864, this home was occupied by three generations of the Swift family. During my childhood though, a dear neighbour we all called Grammy Gowan lived here. Grammy had 12 children and her son Ken lived next door. She was Indigenous, very wise, calm, and one of the kindest souls I ever met. Even though she had many children and grandchildren, she never limited the love she had to give. I remember playing in her garden as a 4 to 5 year old and always getting a hug (and often a cookie) even though I was likely in her way more often than not. I love it that this home was lovingly restored by the owner of St. Andrews Brewing. Shout out for how beautifully cared for it is. Grammy Gowan would have loved to see it now.
Captain Langley’s Home – 294 Water St.
Another beauty on Water Street.
Faul’s Residence – 285 Water Street
This Georgian style residence is two- and-a-half storeys with a central entranceway in a 5-bay façade. The top windows are flush with the eaves and the side gables have very little eave overhang and returns. The first known occupant of this home was Catherine Fauls in the 1870’s. She remained here with her nephew James Gallagher and she sold the home to him in 1913. From 1936 to 1941 this was the home of Motasaki Akagi, a Canadian born Japanese citizen who resided in St. Andrews before the war, working as a motor mechanic. He joined the war efforts and was later stationed at Camp Utopia. I grew up a few steps away from this house and never thought much of it but I knew Mr. Akagi and he was a very noble man.
Saint Andrews Land Company
The St. Andrews Land Company (circa 1889) is the only19th century brick commercial structure in the town. Its purpose was to promote the town as a seaside resort and the founders helped build the Algonquin Hotel, the golf course and made sure the CPR rail made it to town. The first newspaper, The Beacon, was housed in the basement of the building.
Mallory House and Livery – 267 Water St.
The Mallory House was built in 1810 for loyalist Robert Pagan. During the first 59 years, the home served as a tavern and an inn with five bedrooms on the second floor and four on the third floor. William E. Mallory purchased the home in 1879 and it remained in the Mallory family until about 2015. The Mallory family had a livery contract with the Canadian Pacific Railway transporting guests and their luggage from the railway station to the famed Algonquin Hotel. They built the large barn behind their home in 1889 and kept up to 15 horses in its basement stalls. Later with the introduction of the automobile, W. E. Mallory’s became a taxi service.
This home was later occupied by Charles Mallory and was the childhood home of William Mallory’s grandson, James Russell Mallory. James Russell Mallory was a Canadian academic and constitutional expert. In 1964, he was made a Fellow of the Royal Society of Canada. He was awarded the Queen Elizabeth II Silver Jubilee Medal in 1977. The McGill University James R. Mallory Lecture in Canadian Studies is named in his honour.
Harry and Pauline Mallory lived in this home during my life in St. Andrews. Harry was my Dad’s high school principal. They sold the barn to my friends, the Doon Family. George Doon repaired and sold bicycles but mostly he and Harry opened the big barn door and sat in rocking chairs watching the world go by.
Kennedy Inn
The Kennedy Inn was built in 1881 for Angus Kennedy in Georgian Revival style. It is often referred to as the first “Summer Hotel in Canada”. The hotel originally consisted of a dining room for 75 people, 52 guest rooms, and marble baths on each of the three guest floors. The parlors and dining rooms were spacious. It was said not to be surpassed by any similar establishment in Canada. Wash basins were set in marble slabs, nickel plated faucets, got and cold water, and a ventilation system that had a fresh air inlet and trapped impure gases. The hotel faces Market Square and is open year round to this day.
My younger sister had her wedding here on a snowy night in January. It was so cozy and fabulous.
The Post Office
Built in 1936, the Federal Building housed both the Post Office and Customs and is prominently located on Market Square. Now, it still houses the Post Office but the rear of the building is the wonderful St. Andrews Brewery. They make excellent craft beer and have a great patio overlooking the square and the water beyond.
Bank of Nova Scotia – 204 Water Street
Built in 1913 and designed by John Lyle. The Bank of Nova Scotia merged with the Bank of New Brunswick and this was part of its expansion as a coast to coast bank. Of course I banked here, it was and is the only bank in town.
The American House (now Boutique La Baleine – The Whale Store)
Built in the late 18th century, circa 1784-1800, this building was purchased for 400 pounds by John Bailey, in 1828, from the estate of loyalist Robert Pagan, a well known St. Andrews merchant. In 1845 Bailey’s son-in-law, Englishman John Bradford, became proprietor of Bradford Hotel in this building. After his death, it continued as a hotel known as American House.
Since my early childhood, it’s been one of the most popular gift stores in town affectionately known as The Whale Store.
Sunbury Shores
Originally this building was a grocery store owned by the Doon Family, Sunbury Shores Arts & Nature Centre was established here in 1964. It’s NB a non-profit organization dedicated to fostering the appreciation of art and nature with galleries, studios for ceramics and metalwork, and year-round workshops inspired by the Fundy coast environment. My mother has learned everything from chair caning to stain glass at their workshops.
Treadwell Inn – 129 Water Street
Built by John Treadwell in the 1820’s, the building was part commercial and part residence. From 1939 to 1975, it was home to the Beacon Press. Today, it houses three businesses; a bed and breakfast, an olive oil store and the wonderful Chandler Room (small plates) restaurant.
Windsor House – 132 Water Street
Built in 1797 for United Empire Loyalist Capt. David Mowat and his wife Mehitable Calef. According to the St. Andrews Civic Trust the couple are a part of St. Andrews folklore. He was a master mariner, ship owner and member of the Legislative Assembly for Charlotte County. During a storm off the Coast of Maine in 1810, Captain Mowat shipwrecked and lost his life. After her husband’s death, Mehitable (Calef) Moffat heard of a woman that dug clams every day to feed her 8 children. She rode out to the poor woman’s home with a hamper of food and promised she would send men in a boat to bring them to St. Andrews. The following day the family was brought to Mehitable’s home and stayed there six months until the husband returned from England. This deprived family was that of Henry Goldsmith, nephew of the famous Irish writer, Oliver Goldsmith. One of the children that stayed at this home for 6 months was Oliver Goldsmith, the first native Canadian to publish a book of poems. Mehitable remained in this home until her death in 1860 at the age of 92. The home remained in the Mowat family until 1873.
Today, it is a beautiful hotel with a restaurant called Noble. On a nice day, you can enjoy dinner in the back garden.
At the end of Water St. turn right on Harriet St and walk up the hill.
Villa St. Croix – 4 Parr St
According to the St. Andrews Civic Trust, Villa St. Croix is a rare example of a Craftsman bungalow, a style that spurred from the Prairie style popularized by Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959). In keeping with the style, there’s a large veranda below wide overhanging eaves and the low-pitched hipped roof.
Arthur W. Mason had the home built circa 1917 after purchasing this large lot from the St. Andrews Land Company in 1916. Arthur was born in London, England, and was the eldest son of Sir George Mason. He came to Canada where he was associated with the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) in Montreal, later coming to the CPR-owned Algonquin Hotel. After having this home constructed, he received the appointment as Superintendent of Engineers of all CPR hotels. He maintained this home throughout his life, continuing to reside here after his retirement. He passed away here in 1955. His wife passed away in 1966 and their son Charles, a retired Air Force Officer, sold the home in 1968.
Charles and his wife, were great supporters of Boy Scouts and Girl Guides when I was a child. I remember them well.
Now, if you continue walking up the Harriet St hill, you’ll turn right on Carleton St.
Cory Cottage – 45 Carleton St
Cory Cottage is a side gabled Greek Revival style residence with large gabled dormers and large eave returns from the early 19th century in St. Andrews. It was built in 1830 and remodelled in 1915. It was formerly the home of Jacob Haddock. He was a house joiner and undoubtedly built many of the homes in St. Andrews. The Haddock home was purchased in 1915 by Hayter and Kate Reed.
The Reed’s were owners of the neighbouring home, Pansy Patch. They remodelled Cory Cottage and it became the summer home of their son Gordon. Hayter Reed was Deputy Superintendent of Indian Affairs and his wife, Kate, was the first woman interior decorator in Canada after being hired to decorate all CPR hotels. Gordon Reed was an architect who had a great eye for colour and all of his houses were beautifully decorated.
Now walk next door to the Pansy Patch.
The Pansy Patch – 59 Carleton St
Construction for Pansy Patch began in the fall of 1912 and was completed in 1913. Charles Saxe was the designer and it is said to be a copy of Jacques Cartier’s house that was built in the 16th Century. It was built for Hayter and Kate Reed. Hayter Reed was a controversial Deputy Superintendent of Indian Affairs. He was noted for his work in preserving and recognizing Native traditions but his policies resulted in a further isolation of aboriginal tribes in Canada. After his dismissal, Reed became manager-in-chief of the CPR hotels. His wife, Kate Reed, was the first woman interior decorator in Canada. She was a widely known artist and gave her personal attention to the erection and decoration of Pansy Patch. She was an advisor for many wealthy art collectors including Sir William Van Horne. Through her association with Van Horne and other CPR directors, she was given the job of decorating all the CPR hotels. She was knowledgeable and artistic and many of the old CPR hotels still display her abilities. At the Algonquin in St. Andrews her trademark was evident with mottoes, quotations, or verses painted above fireplaces or on the backs of benches.
Congratulations, you’re back at The Algonquin. Well done! You’ve finished the first Route. Which one will you do next?
Route #2 – The Big Loop – from “the point” explore Van Horne Trail, the Bar Road and Brandy Cove Rd back to Water St.
Start at “the point” entrance to the Van Horne Trail. Do take time for the short side walk to explore Pagan Point when you see that sign on your right. Continue past the salt marsh, crossover Salt Marsh Road and when you come to a fork in the road, go to the right out to Katy’s Cove on the Passamaquoddy Bay side. Take in the view of Minister’s Island. Now, backtrack and go left at the fork skirting the base of Kingsbrae Gardens. Pass by Katy’s Cove (Unless it’s a hot day; bring a suite go swimming if it is.) Continue on Van Horne Trail all the way out to the Bar Road. Turn left. Climb the hill and turn right on Mowat Drive and then left on Cornelia Rd. You’ll come out on Rte 127. Turn left and then right on Marine Science Dr. Walk about 500 meters and turn left on Brandy Cove Rd. Walk on the path that leads through the golf course. When it meets Cedar Lane, keep right on Brandy Cove Road and merge onto Joe’s Point Road at the base of the hill. Follow it back to Water St and downtown St. Andrews. This is stunning 2 hour walk.
When I walk this route I have so many fond memories of swimming in Katie’s Cove. All my swimming lessons were there. I’d ride my bike and stay there all day. Beach combing, heather picking, bird watching, and just sitting and letting the wind wash over me are favourite past times here.
The next route outlines another terrific walk.
Route 3 – Joe’s Point Road, Pottery Creek and out to the Golf Course Hole #13
Start at Niger Reef Tea House – 1 Joe’s Point Road
Florence Ayscough, well known author and authority for Chinese customs, leased this property from the Town in order to construct a Chapter House for the Passamaquoddy Chapter of the Imperial Order of the Daughters of the Empire (IODE). The IODE is a Canadian women’s charitable organization founded in 1900 during the Second Boer War in patriotic support of the British Empire. Mrs. Ayscough took a personal interest in the construction of this building and on June 24th 1926 she presented the Chapter House to Mrs. W. F. Todd, president of the provincial chapter of New Brunswick IODE and wife of the Lieutenant Governor. The building was operated as a tea room by the members during the summer season and served as a meeting place during the milder months of the year. Proceeds of the tearoom went towards scholarships, bursaries, book prizes, and awards, as well as pursuing other philanthropic and educational ends.
The collection of murals Lucille Douglas painted in this building were treescapes and rocky landscapes appropriate to the Atlantic Coast, but they were influenced by her experiences in the Orient. She created them in the style of Chinese panels with strips of wood laths separating and dividing the panels. There are 4 murals, one on each wall. Miss Douglas had used water-based paint on beaverboard about a centimetre thick.
The Tea House served as a residence after the war and into the 1980s. It then fell into disrepair. Public sentiment saved it from demolition by the town. It was restored by St. Andrews Civic Trust and reopened in 1998. My friend, David is the chef and has the best lobster sandwich in town.
The Blockhouse
This is the last surviving War of 1812 blockhouse in Canada and was built by local residents with militia support. Strategically, its location is brilliant as that is the great state of Maine across the water.
Derry Bay on Joe’s Point Road
Built in 1924 by architext William Maxwell and Gordon Pitts for the famous artist George Horne Russell. His studio was here and his Maritime paintings were credited with increasing tourism to the area.
View at Pottery Creek on Joe’s Point Road
This is often a destination for my walks about town. There’s a little bridge you can sit on and watch the tide, herons and other bird life. It might look fake but I assure you, it’s real.
Original Clubhouse – Algonquin Golf Resort
Established in 1894, this small building above is the original clubhouse of the Algonquin Golf Course , a historic seaside links originally designed by William Winch as a 9-hole course, expanding to 18 holes by 1896. I learned to golf here in 1980 and have been golfing ever since. You can see the ocean from 15 of the 18 holes. It is always noted in the top golf courses in Canada.
Walk to the end of Joe’s Point. Make sure to turn your cell phone to airplane mode. Otherwise, you are so close to Maine, you might get charged for roaming.
If you walk up to the Algonquin Golf Clubhouse from here, you can stop for some refreshments. Then cross the road and have a look at Anderson House.
Anderson House (formerly Linkcrest or Tait House)- 1 Upper Campus Road
Maxwell and Pitts designed this Georgian Revival home in red brick with an impressive view of the harbour, and extensive landscaping, including gardens and a lily pond. The first owners, Sir Thomas and Lady Taitvisited and stayed at the Algonquin Hotel for many years before they decided to build in 1928-9.
According to the St. Andrews Civic Trust, Sir Thomas Tait began to work for the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) in his teen years, becoming the private secretary to Sir William Van Horne between 1882 and 1886. He worked hard, and continued to rise in the CPR, eventually becoming the General Manager of Transportation. He then moved to Australia, where in 1903 the Australian government appointed him as Chairman of the Board of Railway Commissions for Victoria. He performed his duties there in exemplary fashion, turning a $1,800,000 deficit into a $1,000,000 surplus, and was knighted for his work. In 1910, he returned to Canada, and retired altogether from the railway business in 1916.
Sir Thomas Tait was very interested in sailing, and he owned a yacht known as the Pakwan. There was an impediment to Sir Tait’s enjoyment of sailing in St. Andrews, however, and that was the lack of an organized yacht club. This was of no concern though, as Sir Tait appointed himself ‘Commodore’, often walking around town with a white sailing cap. When new boats arrived at the wharf, Sir Thomas Tait would greet them as the Commodore of the St. Andrews yacht club which did not exist. This display provided entertainment for local fishermen. Lady Tait was known as being very nice and delightful to her guests. Lady Tait was the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George R. B. Cockburn of Toronto. She often organized old-fashioned tennis parties in the 1930s, where all who attended would wear their whites and be treated to afternoon tea.
Today, the home is a residence and conference center for the Hunstman Marine Science Center.
Now, you can meander your way back to town.
Route 4 – Drive over to visit Covenhoven on Minister’s Island (take a picnic)
Minister’s Island was originally the home of the Reverend Samuel Andrews. The island can only be accessed twice a day when the tides lower and reveal a natural bridge road that connects it to the mainland. Sir Willian Cornelius Van Horne was audacious enough to want it and he made a magnificent home for his family here.
I am fascinated by the life of Sir William Cornelius Van Horne. He started as a morse code operator at a young age working for the Chicago – Minneapolis – St Paul railway line and quickly worked his way up the ranks. He was recruited by the first president of the CPR, George Stephen, as General Manager of the transcontinental railway build for Canada and finished the job in 5 years instead of the 10 years he was given. Covenhoven is his 50-room summer mansion on Ministers Island built between 1890 and the early 1900s when he was president of the CPR. Constructed from local red sandstone, the estate served as a luxurious retreat for his family, featuring elaborate additions designed with architect Edward Maxwell to create a sprawling, unique, and grand summer home.
Sir Van Horne needed little sleep and loved to spend time painting in the round bathhouse at the point of the island. His studio/bedroom was on the first floor of the home and his wife’s room was on the second floor. She liked her sleep. He had conservatories for growing tropical fruit and a massive Dutch barn for his prized Dutch Belted Cattle. Every morning he was in Montreal, he expected milk from his farm in St. Andrews to arrive by train in time to be on his table for breakfast. When the train arrived in Banff in 1883, he said, “We cannot export the scenery so we must import the tourists!” He had one of the most profound impacts on tourism in Canada.
Route 5 – Wander up and down the Grid of Streets in the Town
Milton Hall – 93 Frederick St is a good place to start
Milton Hall was built for Thomas Turner Odell between 1855 and 1865 and is a high-class example of the Greek Revival style. It has a classic symmetrical design with a prominent central bay, which encompasses the entrance. The elaborate entrance and bay windows span the first and second storeys. Mr. Odell came to St. Andrews at the age of 13 to enter the dry goods establishment of his uncle, Thomas Turner. At the young age of 18, Mr. Odell took over the business after his uncle’s death in 1850. The business flourished and Thomas Turner Odell became a leading merchant in St. Andrews until his death in 1891.
When I was young, this was the home of my family doctor, Dr. Smith. He delivered me and because I was the third child and my Dad had to stay with the first two, Dr. Smith picked my mother up and drove her to the hospital. He told me once he remembered it because it was eerily calm but there was a hurricane on the way. I was born in the hurricane.
Now look across the street and you’ll see the next home.
All Saints Rectory – 94 Frederick St
This home, built in 1826, had a number of prosperous owners but Bessie Grimmer, a single woman and heiress, left the building to the Anglican church in the 1960s and they have owned it since. My sister’s best friend, Shanie Jones, was the daughter of Arch Deacon Jones and once in a blue moon they would “allow me” the privilege of listening to records with them in her room. I was too intimidated to remember much about it – lol.
Kitty corner to the rectory, you can’t miss the County Courthouse.
The Charlotte County Courthouse – 123 Frederick St
Built by Thomas Berry in 1839-40, it is an extremely well-preserved public building constructed of local pine and set on a stone foundation. It is one of the most significant Neo-Classical style buildings in Canada. It’s been used as a courthouse for over 170 years.
The County Gaol
Built in 1832 from massive granite blocks shipped by scow from a quarry in Deer Isle, Maine, it speaks to the heavy-handedness of 19th century justice and is one of New Brunswick’s oldest surviving gaols. It has housed the Charlotte County Archives for some time now. Though the facade speaks to the harshness of 19th Century law, my memories of this building are much happier. My maternal grandmother worked as the cook here and the hill beside it was the best sliding hill in town. I spent many happy hours there and my best friend and I also took a short cut across this field 4 times daily coming and going from elementary school.
Now turn left on Parr St and walk a block to the RC church.
Parish of St Andrews Roman Catholic Church – 133 King St.
This is a great story from the St. Andrews Civic Trust: In 1815 at the end of the Napoleonic Wars, Irish emigrants began to arrive in St. Andrews in large numbers. In the peak years of emigration, between 1818 and 1820, as many as four thousand might have landed, and as many as ten thousand before the Famine years 1846-1849. There were enough Roman Catholics to warrant the building of a church. The trustees were named in 1820, and in 1824 construction was started, the trustees having undertaken “within a space of eleven days…[and] in a good and workmanlike manner, [to] frame and raise a certain building, intended for a Chapel.” They also undertook to assemble whatever materials might be needed and such rum and refreshments as the builder might require. (A daily supply of rum was more often than not taken for granted in the hiring.) By 1851 just over 50% of the heads of households in St. Andrews were Irish-born. The first Roman Catholic Church was built on Parr Street at its junction with Mary Street.
By the last quarter of the nineteenth century the Roman Catholic population had outgrown the capacity of its first church. A replacement church in the popular Gothic Style was built on King Street in 1885-1886. The present church replaced its 1825 predecessor that was located on the corner of Mary and Parr streets, next to the Old Roman Catholic Cemetery. The “new” church was erected for $6,500 using the plans of distinguished Saint John architect G. Ernest Fairweather, who designed many of New Brunswick’s most important buildings of the period. Gothic Revival in style, is adorned with a corner tower and spire that reaches 100 feet.
Though I’m a “yogi” now, I did grow up going to this church and am grateful for the wonderful priests we had; Father Quinn and Gillis in particular. They were kind and loving and both had a great sense of humour. I’m grateful that was my experience as I know not everyone had that with the RC church (St. Andrews was too small for a Catholic school or nuns!)
Walk a half block (towards the wharf) to the Baptist Church.
The Baptist Church – 117 King St.
Built in 1865, the St. Andrews Baptist Church is an excellent example of Carpenter Gothic architecture. My memory of it is food related. They had the most wonderful church supper fundraisers including a Valentine’s one that featured Baked Beans, homemade bread, potato and corn scallops and homemade pie for dessert.
Walk another block towards the wharf.
All Saints Anglican Church – 89 King St
Built in 1867, the architect of All Saints Anglican Church was George Snell of Boston. He had built many beautiful buildings in that city and originally submitted elaborate designs for a stone church but the enormous cost made it impossible to carry out these plans. The church was instead built out of New Brunswick spruce and pine, painted and plastered to look like stone. For many years the Anglican denomination was the only religion practiced in St. Andrews. This was partly due to the background of the initial settlers but a large part is due to Rev. Samuel Andrews. The present church displays a large plaque and a portrait of Rev. Andrews who was held in high esteem by the residents of St. Andrews. It was only after his death in 1818 that other denominations formed churches.
Across the street you’ll find Windrose and Chestnut Hall.
Windrose – 94 King St.
Built in 1825 for Dr. Samuel Frye who had moved to St. Andrews from Fryeburg, Maine in 1810. It has a lateral gabled roof with 4 symmetrically placed inset chimneys. The Neo-Classical style means strict classical symmetry with 6/6 windows flanked by heritage shutters. The central entranceway has a detailed fan window and sidelights.
Dr Frye practices medicine in St. Andrews until his death from typhus fever in 1847 while working with sick immigrants on Hospital Island. In 1825, the town of St. Andrews established a marine hospital under his direction. In 1832, a quarantine station was established on Hospital Island and Dr. Frye was in charge. While being supervisor of the roads, Dr. Frye built a road through neighbouring Chamcook known today as Frye Road. This home has always struck me as one of the most elegant in St. Andrews. Especially with its visible conservatory and large gardens.
Chestnut Hall – Ross Museum – 188 Montague St
Few homes in St. Andrews have had such noteworthy owners. Chestnut Hall was built in 1824 for Harris Hatch. Mr. Hatch was an attorney and Registrar of Deeds and Wills for Charlotte County. In 1838, he was appointed to the Legislative Assembly and in 1842 was named Commissioner for the Estates and Bankruptcy in Charlotte County. He was also president of the Charlotte County Bank and of the Agricultural Society and member of the St. Andrews and Quebec Railway company. He passed away in 1839 and was succeeded as Judge of Probate by his eldest son, Harris Hatch Jr.
In 1920, Grace Helen Mowat obtained this building as her retail store named “Cottage Craft”, staying in business at this location for 18 years. In 1915, she had founded Charlotte County Cottage Craft to provide a source of income for women and to revive their traditional skills. She divided Charlotte County, as well as neighbouring counties, into districts, assigning a forewoman in each district to direct the work of women weaving, knitting, hooking, doll making, and embroidery in the privacy of their own homes. Everything was made from local wool, colours, and dyes. The expertise obtained by these women inspired their children thus the influence of the revival of traditional skills is still apparent in the region today.
Chestnut Hall is also recognized through its association with Henry Phipps Ross and Sarah Juliette Ross. While visiting St. Andrews in 1902, this American couple became attached to the town’s beauty. The Ross’, after spending many years in St. Andrews, purchased Chestnut Hall in 1938 to house their extensive collection of fine furniture, oriental carpets, and art from their world travels. In 1945, they bequeathed Chestnut Hall to the town of St. Andrews for a museum of their collection and a lasting legacy of their affection for St. Andrews. They also left money and details of construction for a new library. Both the museum and library are attractions in the town of St. Andrews today being respectively named the Ross Memorial Museum and Ross Memorial Library. Portraits of the original owners and of the Ross family still adorn the walls of Chestnut Hall.
When I was a teenager, I worked at the local nursing home and cared for Eva Kelly. Ms. Kelly had been the cook and lady’s maid to Sarah Juliette Ross and she said they treated her and her husband, their chauffeur, like treasured family their entire lives. Eva had a painting of Sarah Juliette Ross at the side of her bed. Sarah work pink and carried a large bouquet of wild flowers. Years later when I was touring the museum and saw that painting on the wall, I thought of dear Eva and how much she loved Mrs. Ross. They never had children but they treated Eva and Charlie like their own.
Now walk further down King St to the corner of King and Queen St.
Sherriff Andrews House – 63 King St
Sheriff Andrews House was built for Elisha Shelton Andrews circa 1820. Elisha Shelton Andrews was the son of Reverend Samuel Andrews, a Loyalist who immigrated to New Brunswick around 1786 in order to remain loyal to King George III of England and who became the owner of Minister’s Island in Passamaquoddy Bay. Elisha Shelton Andrews practised law and was judge of Charlotte County. He was later appointed sheriff of Charlotte County by Lieutenant-Governor Thomas Carleton. The home shows how prosperous the family was with the purity of its Neo Classical style; the rectangular plan, classical proportions, the massive chimneys, the sash windows, the semielliptical fanlight above the central door, and the perfect symmetry of the various components of the main façade.
The property is now owned by the province of New Brunswick and is open seasonally for visitation. Hot tip: they make amazing cookies in summer and also share their recipes.
Head up Queen St now and locate Harris Hatch House.
Harris Hatch House – 142 Queen St
Harris Hatch II obtained the land for this home in 1847. Mr. Hatch was the grandson of loyalist Col. Christopher Hatch, an officer in the British Service during the American Revolution. In 1838 Harris Hatch succeeded his father, Harris Hatch Sr. (see Chestnut Hall above), as Registrar of Deeds for Charlotte County. The home remained in the Hatch/Coakley family until 1970.
Now stroll a little further up Queen St and look for the famous “saltbox.”
Gladstone Smith House (the Saltbox) – 107 Queen St
The Gladstone Smith House is one of the oldest buildings in St. Andrews and serves as an excellent example of the “saltbox” form of structure characteristic of period houses in Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Long Island, but rare in this locality. The first group of Loyalist settlers arrived with all their possessions in St. Andrews in October 1783, from Castine, Maine. Many even disassembled the frame houses they had built, transported them by ship, and erected them in St. Andrews. The St. Andrews Civic Trust says it’s possible that the Gladstone Smith house was one of these houses moved from Castine and erected in St. Andrews in 1785 by Joseph Crookshank. Several architectural historians speculate that the house might actually have been originally built as early as the 1760’s in Maine. This is definitely one of my favourite houses in St. Andrews.
Walk furtner along Queen and turn right at Edward St.
Greenock Presbyterian Church
When finished in 1824, this church was one of the most beautiful and costly in New Brunswick, such are the interior and exterior elements. The exterior of the tower is a carved representation of an oak tree in full leaf, beneath which is inscribed in large letters “GREENOCK CHURCH – FINISHED JUNE 1824.” Greenock, being Christopher Scott’s hometown, is a slight modification of “Green Oak.” The church has a large handsome entranceway with heavy doors, an arched transom window flanked by Corinthian columns and is crowned by a pediment. Above the entrance is a beautiful Palladian window with four fluted Corinthian columns. This level is crowned by a clock and a steeple.
The origins of the church are interesting. When St. Andrews was first founded, so beloved was Rev. Samuel Andrews that all denominations were content to listen to his preaching. When he passed away in 1817, his replacement was far less favourable. Catholics, Presbyterians and other denominations looked to build their own churches and congregations.
Rev. John Cassilis of Scotland arrived in St. Andrews in 1818 and his congregation were determined to have a church of their own. In 1821, when a substantial sum of money was raised, a contract was given to Donald D. Morrison to build the church. The funds became exhausted and the church stood unfinished until November 1822. Folklore has it that in the fall of 1822, Christopher Scott, a wealthy St. Andrews resident who had hailed from Scotland, overheard rude remarks concerning the inability of the Presbyterians to afford a church of their own. With individual cost and without regard to expense, he finished the church to his own taste.
Continue up Edward and look for Christopher Scott’s home at 126.
Christopher Scott House – 126 Edward St
Christopher Scott, a purported smuggler, privateer and financier was the son of William Scott, head of the Clyde shipbuilding firm of Scott and Company in Scotland. In 1799, he was sent to New Brunswick, along with 50 skilled craftsmen, to establish a shipyard and to take advantage of the colonies unlimited supply of timber. In 1803, he went into business on his own account and had a workforce of 400. He moved to St. Andrews in 1810 and amassed a considerable fortune through illegal trade with the United States. In 1812, he provided money for the blockhouse at St. Andrews and in 1822 he paid for the completion of Greenock Presbyterian Church, both locally designated heritage properties. The church was named after his hometown of Greenock, Scotland. This home is situated just up the street from the historic church.
Now walk up the hill towards Parr St and you’ll find a home built for the Greenock minister.
The Presbyterian Manse – 106 Parr St.
Built in 1900 as a residence for the Greenock Church minister, this home was one of the first designed by Edward Maxwell. Using Neo-Classical elements such as the portico with ionic columns and semi-circular pediments, he gave the building a formal monumental appearance. The Presbyterian Manse is also significant as the childhood home of Margaret Mahon, who would go on to marry Dr. Charles Best, the co-inventor of insulin.
The End
Well, of course, it’s not really the end. This is only the beginning of all the fabulous ways to spend time in St. Andrews-by-sea, New Brunswick.
It’s taken me quite a few years to gather all these photos. It was a leisurely past time sprinkled with a fair dose of whimsy. Soon, I’ll post some of my favourite places to eat in St. Andrews. I’ll also post my photo collection of the Decorated Doors and Porches of St. Andrews in all four seasons.
Stay tuned and let me know what else will help you Savour It All. ™
